JAY R SMITH MANUAL INLINE SHUT OFF VALVE PICTURES- Deferred maintenance

[Joseph Tribuzio]

This is the brass gate that was inside the valve

[Joseph Tribuzio]

this is the opening of the valve body in which the gate moved up and down manually by action of a wheel.

[Joseph Tribuzio]

This is a view of the top plate and threaded stem that moves the gate into open and closed positions.
( providing the top plate is bolted down )

[Michael Merino]

Joe, how did you get access to the workings?

[Joseph Tribuzio]

Joe, how did you get access to the workings?

Since the bolts were not there anymore, I took the advice from Tom G at Luczak sales In shaumburg-
(luczak.com) i backed it up by turning the wheel all the way open, and got the top plate and bolt out, then when I found the gate was super rusted to valve body, so I tapped it gently on both sides, sprayed some WD40 on it, and later it loosened up and I was able to remove it for my inspection.

The moving parts are POSSIBLY brass? bronze maybe-  so you gotta be reeeeeeally careful.

[Michael Merino]

Was this a home inspection? Is that a bit beyond the SOP, I am not faulting you, but what if it broke?

[Joseph Tribuzio]

Was this a home inspection? Is that a bit beyond the SOP, I am not faulting you, but what if it broke?

GAWD NO, this is my own home's flood control.
I would never do more than open the pit lid by the handle-

and note the top of a manual/ or automatic valve -

from there, i would either write: ask present owner if regular maintenance or repairs had been performed.

Or i would point out the maintenance needs and suggest a qualified sewer contractor do an evaluation coupled with a camera and rodding of the waste line to street.

[Joseph Tribuzio]

Here is the pit they put it in towards front of my basement.

Not easy to get to,--- not rushing to break up concrete and replace- which is what every plumber wants to do instead of repairing it-

Most are afraid to damage the brass parts.  I however was considering it beyond its serviceable lifetime, but now it seems the sewer gods may be smiling upon me....

there is a possibility it can be reworked a bit, like an old harley..lol

[Michael Merino]

That's an easy fix--duct tape!!!

[Dominic Maricic]

Great pictures How old is that?

[Joseph Tribuzio]

It had to have been put in before 69, might have been earlier in late 50's.

They are supposed to be opened and closed once or twice a year- i dont think anyone did this for a loong time, before i inherited the problem...  By then the gasket was worn away the bolts rusted or removed at some point.  I had a hard time finding info on this thing.
                                 

[Dominic Maricic]

Cool

[Michael Merino]

Joe, what ever happened with this?

[Joseph Tribuzio]

Joe, what ever happened with this?

After many costly quotes for replacement valves, and quotes for repairs, what i ended up doing was what several installers suggested: Remove movable parts ( threaded shaft, gate valve etc) and seal the top, which is a little better than nothing because there is still an additional back flow flap with this model.  So I sealed the top plate down well, and if an opportunity, ( or the money) arises to replace it with an updated fc valve, It can be. LEAKING used to fill the pit. Now just ground water seepage from the crock. Turns out the threads for the top were severely rusted out... why? because it was not maintained for a long period of time ( before i was even born LOL) .  THESE TYPES OF VALVES WILL SEIZE UP IF NOT OPERATED AND MAINTAINED AND WILL LEAK ONCE THEIR CORK SEAL GASKETS DETERIORATE. I bet most manual valves will have not gotten the attention they need.

What makes this a pain for me is that there's a newly finished wall ( steel stud wall) and a epoxy painted floor. So any replacement required breaking up concrete floor and removal. Groundwater is frequently high around EP & water could just back up if it rained that afternoon.  Dry season- replacement with an automatic JR SMITH VALVE. That's what to do, but that's about $4,000.